Wednesday, 7 August 2013

Mad scientists: matcha self-saucing pudding.

Warning: this post contains images that might be offensive to some readers.
 
12 year old and I were plotting. We needed pudding and we needed it stat! Problem – there was no pudding in the house and it was nearly bed-time for one of us.
“We could make one,” I said, reaching for my phone and opening up a search engine, “I’ve heard about self-saucing puddings that you can make really quickly in a coffee mug in the microwave.”
“Can we do that?” he said.
“Why not?”
We found this recipe that fulfilled all our requirements. It was a pudding, it could be done in the microwave. It was fast. Also it was about a mother cooking with her son, so it seemed appropriate.
“I’ll check if we have all the ingredients,” said 12 year old.
He pulled out the SR flour from the pantry, ran to get the milk from the fridge, grabbed the sugar bowl, reached for…
No cocoa powder.
But we did have the matcha latte left over from making the jasmine and matcha delice.


“That would be awesome,” he said.
We mixed it up, poured on the boiling water, and put it in the microwave, carefully setting the timer for 30 seconds. Then we watched through the glass as the mug moved around.
After the ping, we opened the door and peered into the mug.
“Doesn’t look like much has happened,” he said.
“Needs a bit more time,” I suggested, “10 or 20 seconds?”
“15,” he compromised.
But at 10 seconds, the mixture started to rear its ugly head over the rim of the mug. I hit the stop button and took it out, poked it with a finger.
“Seems cooked. Now we have to tip it into a bowl.”
We inverted the mug over the bowl. The pudding fell into it with a wet thunk.
There was a moment’s horror and a whisper of “It looks like someone sneezed” before we both started laughing. I honestly can’t remember the last time I laughed so hard. I had to cling to the bench-top to stop myself from falling over.
When people talk about primordial slime, they are probably thinking about something that looks like this.
 
I have never seen anything quite as grotesque in my kitchen before. It was like a parody of everything that I aspire to as an amateur baker.
“Who’s going to taste it first?” he said, wrinkling his nose.
“I will.”
I took a teaspoon and pushed it into the pudding. It was definitely pudding. It had definitely self-sauced. A trickle of pond-weed coloured liquid ran over the sides.
“It probably looks better when you use cocoa,” he said.
“Undoubtedly.”
But it tasted fine. Better than fine. I had some. He had some. We gave the rest to 16 year old who didn’t give a damn about the fact that it looked like a massive lump of snot. He finished it off and licked the bowl clean.
At bed-time, 12 year old was in a good mood.
“Did you clean your teeth?” I asked, “Get all that green stuff off them?”
“I did, “ he said, then, “That was really fun!”
“You have to experiment," I say in my best parental-fountain-of-wisdom-voice, “That’s how you learn.”
“And tomorrow, can you buy some cocoa?”
“First chance I get, darling. First chance I get.”

Perfect matcha: Secret Cake Club again!

 
 
Here’s how my day goes:

7am: tea – Taylors of Harrogate or Twinings Earl Grey (with milk, no sugar) or something herbal, peppermint is nice.

Between 9am – 11am (depending on how busy my day is) long black coffee or a café mocha. Barista-made is best but there's a decent little machine at work.

Between 1pm - 2pm: another coffee

3pm: always tea

Upon arrival at home: tea again

I think of this as a balanced diet.

The mid-morning coffee and the 3pm cuppa are the most essential. You’ve heard the term ‘gasping for tea’? Well, by 3pm each day, I am not merely gasping, more moving into a state of extreme hyperventilation but with enough air to spare a snarl and a snort for anyone who gets between me and the kettle.

You can see then that the ‘Cuppa Joe’ themed Secret Cake Club is one that I had to attend. The idea was to either bake something using tea or coffee or that would go well with tea and coffee. This gave all the bakers a wide enough scope to do pretty much what they wanted.

My dilemma was a basic one: to use tea or coffee as an ingredient? Coffee is one of my favourite flavours especially when paired with chocolate. I love a coffee crème, I adore a coffee éclair, and a bitter-sweet tiramisu will not last long if I am around. However, I had never cooked much using tea although I am a great consumer of the drink, so I decided it would be interesting to extend my repertoire in this way.

I chose this matcha and jasmine delice simply because it looked so pretty. The strata of pale-green and white mousse on the pistachio base; the promise of delicate floral scent and the smokiness of tea; the richness of white chocolate – I was completely sold on the description.

The problem was that, gorgeous as the cake appeared, the recipe wasn’t particularly helpful. The pistachio cake, as described below, would have been better with either more flour or less butter. When I went to remove it from the oven, it was bubbling oil which I had to mop off with a piece of kitchen towel. I also ended up using a lined slice-tin as I wasn’t sure how I was going to layer the mousse otherwise.
For the pistachio cake base:

- 80g ground pistachios
- 80g butter, softened
- 75g sugar
- 1 large egg
- 1 small egg
- 10g cornflour
- 10g plain flour

1. Pre-heat your oven to 170 degrees celcius.
2. Cream the butter and sugar together.
3. Add in the large egg.
4. Fold in the sifted flours and ground pistachio mixture, a Tablespoon at a time.
5. Fold in the small egg.
6. Bake for 10-15 minutes on a sheet pan.

Note: my mould was quite small (8" by 8"), I'd recommend using a larger rectangular mould to yield a shorter cake as the layers are pretty rich.

The mousse was more straightforward. I’d been lucky enough to find titanium strength gelatine leaves while I was on holiday in Margaret River recently and bought a packet to bring back to the city with me. For the white mousse, I had a small packet of jasmine leaf balls. For the green mousse, I bought a tub of matcha latte rather than use straight matcha powder (which can be a tad intense).
 

 
 

 
 
I found that when I was making the mousse, the liquid did not actually stay hot long enough to completely melt the white chocolate. I had to resort to (gasp!) the microwave which I hate to use unless I absolutely have to.
 



 
 
 
Jasmine Mousse:
3T Hot water
2T Jasmine Leaves
2T glucose, or corn syrup
150g white chocolate
300g whipped cream, soft peaks
2 gelatine leaves, softened in cold water

1. Infuse the hot water with the jasmine tea leaves for 10 minutes. Strain this mixture.
2. Heat the tea along with the glucose until it comes to a boil.
3. Remove from heat and stir in the softened gelatine leaves. Pour this mixture over the white chocolate to melt it.
4. Fold in the whipped cream.

Matcha Mousse:
- Made using the exact same recipe and format, except you replace 2T of the jasmine leaves with 2T of matcha powder/green tea leaves.

Assemble the cake, first layering with half of the jasmine mousse and all the matcha mousse. Finish off with the remaining jasmine mousse.
 
The layering was also an issue. I had much more mousse than I needed and there was no instruction about whether or not I needed to chill it in between spreading on the layers. Those lovely clear strata? They were not to be. Everything was rather smudgy I wondered if there was enough gelatine in the mix. Next time I will use more. The left-over mousse was poured into bowls and allowed to set.

My trusty assistant and a bowl of left-over matcha mousse.
 
Taste test: first I sampled some of the left-over mousse. It was knock-me-down wonderful. What would have been overly-sweet as just a white chocolate mousse was nicely tempered by the bitterness of the matcha. The colour was very pretty - a pastel-green very reminiscent of sugared almonds. The jasmine version was also pleasant though not as strong as the matcha one. Then I cut myself a little section of the actual delice. Even without the clean layers, it was different and delicious. 

Layers somewhat obscured but the taste is the thing!

Secret Cake Club was held at Studio Bomba in Leederville and what a Secret Cake Club it was! The amazing Jacqui who organises Cake Club had recently done an interview on 720 ABC Perth and this, along with an ever-increasing social media presence, had pushed the number of attendees to the maximum.
The cut-up delice ready for Cake Club

There was a table full of cake, a sideboard full of cake, a mantelpiece laden with cake. There was coffee-cake, tea cakes, biscotti, donuts...



It was impossible to try every cake that was there, so I settled for trying a few (my absolute favourites on the day were the Portuguese tarts) and then playing "cake Tetris" where you artfully stack your Tupperware to ensure maximum take-home variety and quantity.

Cake Tetris - it's this random skill that I have.

It was great to have the space that Studio Bomba offered. They are a gift shop and art space as well as a café, and this meant that  not only could we use their gorgeous studio for Cake Club, but also to shop for lovely things.

I came home with this:


The angle makes it look massive but it is actually a cute little pendant. We had a TV like this when I was little. And remember test cards?

It was great to be part of the new super-sized Secret Cake Club and I am looking forward to the next event which is cocktail themed. You all know that I am partial to a well-made cocktail.

Right now though, I'm gasping for tea.

My favourite mug. Bonus point if you know what the symbol represents...
 
 

The Strawberrythief - the real one

I couldn't resist posting this meme which was sent to me by the lovely Liv from Colpanna.

After I finished laughing, I started to worry that this might actually be what my ideal man looks like...

Enjoy!

Monday, 5 August 2013

Can't bat, can't bowl, can't bocce: Urbanlocavore "Meet the Makers" event.



I introduce myself to the old Italian man standing in front of me.
“Pleased to meet you,” I say, “What’s your name?”
“Tony,” he smiles.
Then I turn to his friend, another old Italian man.
“And you are?”
“Tony.”
Bocce in the gutters and a little red boccino.
It’s my first time at the Italian Club in Fremantle and it's another world and another time. I’m here for the Urbanlocavore “Meet the Makers Bocce & Bolognaise” event and, frankly, have no idea what to expect other than to be fed at some stage. I’m useless at sport especially where hand-eye coordination is involved and so, even though there is a trophy up for grabs, I’m mostly planning  to sit and be the best spectator that I can be. Last night, the Australian cricket team was comprehensively thumped by the English one. A lot of the conversation I can hear  this morning is about the Ashes and I'm full of admiration for any Australian who is willing to put themselves in a situation which involves bowling accuracy so soon after such a shameful national defeat.
 

I didn’t know places like the Italian Club existed.  Roughly half the entire premises  (on prime real estate down at Fremantle’s fishing boat harbour) is given over to the bocce courts. It’s like a massive covered warehouse with four asphalt lanes. Signs and scoreboards in English and Italian, but mostly Italian, cover the walls. “Financial members only”, “Bocce Club members only”, “I Campi Sono Occupati Gara Privata”.
Listening to the rules.

My scheme to be a spectator is quickly overturned as we are organised into teams of three and then sent to a court to play against another team. Each court is allocated one nonno to teach, to supervise, to score, and to make rude jokes about zucchini.
 
The rules for bocce are on Wikipedia but what we were taught seems only very loosely based on the official information. Add to this the fact that each nonno seems to have his own version of the rules and you can imagine how confusing things become at times.
In a nutshell, it’s like regular lawn bowls – you have to get your bocce closest to the jack (or, in this case, the boccino). Actually getting to that stage takes some doing. There are various target areas into which the boccino must be thrown; if you miss twice, your opponent gets to place the boccino where they like; the person who places the boccino is the first to bowl etc.
And don’t even get me started on the scoring.


Looks like - world's worst clock. Is actually - bocce scoreboard.
A few attempts later and people start to relax and have fun. I discover that my underarm bowling action sends the bocce veering way to the right every time, but an overarm wrist flick seems to do the trick and I am more accurate. I score points, actual points! There is high-fiving within my team, even though we lose our first game.
Some of us got very excited about our achievements!
It’s not fun to the nonnos though. It’s deadly serious stuff. Tony Number 1 gets down on his knees to measure a result with his special bocce measuring stick. He calculates it. He calculates it again. We wait with baited breath on his pronouncement. Then Tony Number 2 steps in, shaking his head, “No, no, no, again.” They both measure. Tony Number 2 stands up and calls for Santo.
Don't mess with this guy.
Santo is in charge. He has the extra-special extendable measuring stick and an extra-large gold crucifix around his neck. He has the bocce rules in his head and heart, and God on his side. He is not a man to mess with. That, however, doesn’t stop two more nonnos leaning over the fence to add their 2 cents to the debate. Santo turns to us and makes his decision with an elegant sweep of his wrist. The point is ours and we have won this game. Loud cheers!
After all the mental stress of trying to make a bocce roll in the right direction, I head to the bar with a couple of friends. It’s like the 1970s set up residence inside and never left. The giant sign over the counter sports both an endorsement of Emu bitter and a map of Italy. There’s also sangiovese for $5 a glass which is also very reasonable and pretty good after a morning walking up and down the breezy courts.
 

 

Lunch, when it arrives, is very necessary. We are all worn out by the play and the strategising (such as it is) and ready for some food. As it is a “Meet the Makers” lunch, Jeff and Paul from Urbanlocavore, have organised for some of the people who supplied the produce for the July Urbanlocavore box to talk to us.  It’s a nice idea but difficult to hear above the noise of all the ladies in the kitchen. That’s right – while the nonnos have been on court, all the nonnas have been in the kitchen, indulging their need to feed and cooking up a storm of pasta. Their need to talk (loudly) is almost as great. We can hear them shushing each other to get absolute quiet and failing entirely.
Grazie mille, nonnas!
As we hear from the producers of Princi Smallgoods, ThirdPillar Olive Oil, Juniper Estate Wines and Azzura Gelati, the lunch is served.  The anti-pasto and the dessert are the best parts of the meal, as it is easy to make the direct connection between what the maker has been talking about and the food in front of you. There are trays of cured meats to begin, and tiny gelati (in strawberry, chocolate, pistachio and Cointreau) cones to finish.
Jeff gets the speeches started.
There are bowls of ciabbata bread there but no olive oil to dip the bread in! One of the guys on our table has a quick word and manages to secure a small bottle of the Third Pillar oil which we pass up and down the rows to share.


Similarly, there is no Juniper Estate wine (which is sitting in tempting bottles up the front of the room) instead we have carafes of Coolabah decanted straight out of the box. Now, I try, I really try, not to be a wine snob, but I have been having some lovely chats with the Juniper Crossing rep via Twitter and they are half the reason that I have come along – to meet this particular maker. My cask-wine days are long-gone (left behind when I finished university) and, talking to the foodie-minded people around me, we come to the agreement that we would have gladly paid an extra $10 - $15 dollars on our tickets to have good wine in front of us.



 
In between the prosciutto and gelati, there is a pasta dish and a main. The pasta is penne with sugo and, I think, shredded chicken, but it isn’t immediately obvious. Still, it is basic and tasty. I’m sitting next to my friend, Katy, who is vegetarian, and she lets me try her pasta, then tells me off for getting all food-blogger on her and describing it as ‘more dynamic’. Certainly, it is a more strongly flavoured, piquant sauce on the vege version and very nice too (thank you, nonnas!).
 
 
However, any advantage Katy may have gained on the pasta is lost when it comes to the mains. While the rest of us are tucking into roast pork, roast vegetables and salad, the vegetarians are tucking into roast vegetables and salad and… extra roast vegetables. It would have been nice to see something like a slice of vege lasagne or perhaps a stuffed field mushroom or similar in the place where the pork would have been.  There is more to vegetarianism that just taking the meat away. This may not have occurred to the nonnas (being of a different generation) but is possibly something that the organisers should take on board for next time.
 
 
For the meat-eaters among us, the roast pork is really tender and fragrant. I am not sure whether the pork butcher is one of the 'makers' here today or not - I haven't heard - but they are definitely to be commended on a decent cut of meat.
Lunch is filling, and when it is over, we are told it is time to get back on the courts for the semi-finals and finals. I check the time. It is getting on for 3pm. The event was meant to be finished at 2.30pm and I have places to be. I hate to pike out as I am meant to be playing with my team in one of the semis, but I am already running late so we concede. I later find out that my friend, @chky_cel , wins the final with her team, and gets to hold the trophy for a photo op as well as take a couple of bottles of Juniper Crossing wine home with her.
 
And she’s not the only one who had a lucky day. As we sat down to eat, we were told that there was a door prize – a complete set of WA’s (now, alas, defunct) Spice magazine, some Gabriel chocolate, some Kate Lane panforte, a bottle of Juniper Estate Tempranillo, 2 litres of Third Pillar Estate Olive Oil, and a jar of lamb marinade – for the person who found a chilli hidden under their side plate. I lifted my plate and there it was: a little red chilli. The goodies were mine to take home and I was very pleased and grateful to have them.

My kind of prize.
It’s been a fun and interesting day - good to meet some new people, get educated about some of the produce that I have eaten, and also to try a new sport. As a first time event, the Urbanlocavore team gave it a red hot go and, with just a little work on the organisation and menu (all credit to them, it is a difficult kind of event to pull together), I am sure that the next one will be even better and I am looking forward to it already.
As I leave the courts, the nonnos are just getting ready to supervise the last games of the day. Tony and Tony are brushing down the asphalt and Santo is looking on: his extendable stick at the ready and his crucifix flashing in the early afternoon sunshine. For them, the serious part is just beginning.

For me, however, the serious part involves drinking Tempranillo, eating chocolate and reading food magazines.

 

Wednesday, 31 July 2013

There's truffles in them thar hills! Darlington Estate Truffle Degustation


Approaching the Darlington Estate winery is a romantic experience. As you come up the dark driveway through the avenue of twisted eucalyptus and banksia trees, the twinkle of the lights reflected in the glass walls of the restaurant is just like the glow of fireflies. The lights draw you in, as does the prospect of being indoors. It's winter, and truffle season, and it is cold.

The is the second year running that I have been lucky enough to get a place on the food blogger table for Darling Estate's truffle degustation and it is worth braving the crazy, dark winding roads of the Perth Hills in the wind and the rain (and the hail! - it was a cold, cold evening) to get to where the good food is.

A group of friendly food-bloggers and some patient plus ones. A well-lit table in the corner. And we were off! Nine courses of truffley goodness over the course of 3 hours plus a wine match is a great way to spend a Friday evening.

Amuse bouche: tarts with liver pate and smoked salmon blini


Rich yet delicate, just the way we like it. The liver pate tarts are a buttery wonder topped with bitter chocolate lattice. The blini have crème fraiche and a sweet morsel of cured salmon. I could have kept going just with these but this, of course, was just the beginning...
 
1. Celeriac and truffle soup shooter, parmesan tuille


Celeriac - not the nice green leafy celery that most people know but another variety with an ugly, nobby, root which actually tastes wonderful when it is roasted, mashed, or, in the case of this first course, blitzed into soup form. Any risk of blandness (and I have found that you need to season celeriac well to avoid this) has been removed by the addition of the truffle shavings on the top, and the parmesan tuille adds zing and alkalinity. 

This was the first taste of truffle that I'd had since I attended last year's Darlington Estate Truffle Dego. It was a welcome return to the truffle experience.
 
2. Roasted prawn, leek, and fennel compote, Champagne and truffle espuma

 

I should probably lead with the fact that I have never been a fan of espuma (foam). I get the idea behind it, lots of air to better allow you the experience the flavour molecules, but visually I don’t think it’s appealing. However, I allowed myself to be challenged this time, closed my eyes, put the spoon to my mouth, and honestly didn’t mind it. What worked best for me here was the prawn and fennel match. Of course, fennel complementing seafood is no surprise, but this prawn was particularly fresh and vigorous of flavour and texture. The fennel dominates here. The leek is nice but more about padding for the fennel than actual leek taste. The sardine tin was a cute serving idea.
4.       Chicken and truffle boudin blanc with enoki mushroom and thyme cream sauce
 

Boudin blanc is a traditional type of sausage. It’s best known in France and Belgium, but can be found in other countries around Europe as well. The casing of this boudin contained delicate chicken meat. There was a wealth of mushroom: truffle AND enoki! It was an unrelentingly rich dish especially with the thyme cream sauce but so very delicious.  What I liked best was the crispy chicken skin on the top and the pipette to dispense the cream sauce. That said, I've never been a fan of slate serving slabs when delicious sauce is involved. The potential for it to escape over the edge is always there and I did lose some to the tablecloth.



3.       Seared rare beef with marinated beetroot, sunflower sprouts and truffle horseradish snow

Beef and beetroot! The stuff of legend (or maybe of burgers?). The juicy pinkness of good meat lifted with the tang of the beetroot slices. The sprouts added a good crunch and the truffle horseradish snow brought it all home. Horseradish is so underrated and never as available as a foodie might like. I’d never thought about combining it with truffle. Now I’m not sure if I will ever manage to think of it without.
 
5.       Lychee and truffle sorbet

This palate cleanser reads more like something from a parfumier than from a restaurateur. High notes of classic Asian florals from the lychee, all tea and flowers and tropical gardens. Then the low notes of the truffle to pull you back down to earth from your floral cloud – pungent and loamy.  The cold wash of the sorbet was very necessary after the first few courses. Palate is cleansed! Bring on the pork!

6.       Pork loin with truffle and anchovy butter, baby carrot, pickled fennel with green pea and truffle puree

My favourite dish of the evening. The fennel makes a reappearance in the form of tart slivers. The puree that accompanies this dish is genius - I love peas particularly in a puree or mashed form, so this dish works well for me, especially when the truffle is added in. But what makes this particular dish so very special is the complexity of flavours in the truffle and anchovy butter. Fatty, salty, earthy, fishy in the most positive way possible and all of this over an excellent cut of pork. I was sad when I was finished and this is the best indication of a superb recipe.
7.       Chocolate and walnut fondant with homemade truffle and honey icecream

And we finally moved on to the sweets! I never thought I’d make it after the last course, and I was starting to get full. While the fondant was not quite as melty on the inside as I normally like, the walnut flavour was good and distinct - this made me happy, as did the popping candy sprinkles and the little chocolate spoon. The honey ice-cream was sweet and fresh without being cloying.
8.       Truffle baked brie with apricot and basil preserve crisp bread

I have been known to do the occasional baked cheese myself but it is always nicer when someone makes it for you.  The textures in this course were at opposite (though complementary) ends of the texture spectrum – creamy brie, crispy bread. The basil fragrance and apricot tang give a necessary lift to the truffle and cheese intensity.
9.       Chocolate truffles and raspberry meringue tarts

I was struggling, absolutely struggling, by this stage. Thank goodness the raspberry-filling was plentiful and sharp because I couldn't have managed another completely rich dish. A short and sweet way to finish the meal.
 
I should mention at this stage that I also did the wine-match with the meal but never feel as confident about describing wines as I feel about described food. I will say this one thing though - the Darlington Estate Cabernet Franc tasted fantastic and looked beautiful with the candlelight bringing out the colours of ruby and garnet.
 
 
It was an amazing evening, not only to experience all these intriguing dishes but also to sit with like-minded people. Having a blogger table is a stroke of genius and Michelle is to be congratulated for not only thinking of it last year, but also for this year's encore. Getting the chance to discuss the food with old and new friends while you eat, lighting each-other's photographs of the food, getting the insider version of the meal that is in front of you not only from the serving staff but also from the people at your table with more expert knowledge than you - it's a real sharing, learning gastronomic experience, and one I hope to make three for three in 2014.
 
 
NOTE: The food bloggers table had a discounted price for which I am grateful. However, both this year and last year, there has been no obligation to write a blog post on the experience.